There has never been a more varied collection of jewelry than during the Victorian era. It took many years for the Victorian era’s effect on jewelry and design to become apparent, but it officially started in 1837 with the coronation of Queen Victoria of the United Kingdom of Great Britain and Ireland, Empress of India. Because of her passion for both art and fashion, Queen Victoria started to define trends early in the 1840s that persisted throughout her reign.
Queen Victoria held the throne for more than sixty years, ending in 1901. Motorcars were unheard of and railroad trains were the height of modern technology when Elizabeth came to the throne. During her reign, important historical occurrences took place, including the American Civil War, the emergence of the suffragette movement, the finding of King Tutankhamun’s tomb in Egypt, and the rise and collapse of the Indian colonial era. These incidents had a significant impact on the jewelry designs of the era, as did Queen Victoria’s grieving for her cherished spouse, Prince Albert.
In this article, we will explore the impact of the Victorian era on jewelry. Stay with us to uncover the rich history and intricate designs that defined this remarkable period. The Romantic Period, the Grand Period, and the Late, or Aesthetic Period are the three main periods that make up the Victorian Era:
Romantic Period (1837-1860)
The early Victorian era broke from the principles of the Georgians, substituting mysticism and spirituality for reason. Romantic jewelry was a reflection of Queen Victoria and Prince Albert’s romance and marriage. Albert gave her the ring that started the custom of giving engagement rings as a gift. This unusual sculpture represented knowledge and unending love by being formed like a snake and clutching its tail in its jaws. The birthstone of Queen Victoria, an emerald, was put in the snake’s head. Setting the standard for her country, Queen Victoria popularized engagement rings adorned with the bride’s birthstone.
The fashion of the day concealed women’s ears and throats by covering them from head to toe with bonnets and high necklines. As a result, brooches, rings, and bracelets grew bold to draw attention to delicate hands and features, while necklaces and earrings were less common. Large, vivid gemstones were in style, such as rubies, topaz, bloodstone, garnet, moss agate, amethyst, and bloodstone. Interesting natural materials like coral, ivory, and tortoiseshell were frequently used in the designs of rings. The custom of halo settings during the Georgian era changed from diamond circlets to strands of seed pearls floating in a frame around the focal jewel.
Many of the motifs of the era, like dragons, birds, flowers, and snakes, were inspired by the natural world. In the early Victorian era, jewels were often associated with magical qualities and deeper meanings. Ruby represented passion, pink coral represented protection from evil and illness, and seed pearls represented tears. There was enchantment and fairy tales throughout the Romantic Era.
Key Influences of the Victorian Romantic Period on Jewelry
The early Victorian period, coinciding with the onset of the Industrial Revolution revolutionized jewelry production by transitioning from handcrafted to machine-made pieces. This shift made jewelry more affordable, catering to the burgeoning middle class. Women enthusiastically embraced this change, adorning themselves with layered and stacked jewelry. Before the California Gold Rush, many items were crafted from low-karat gold or gold-plated. Fine gold wire was often used to enhance designs, providing a useful detail for dating Victorian jewelry.
The Great Period (1860-1885)
Queen Victoria had a string of misfortunes in the 1860s, starting with the death of her mother in 1861, and shortly after that, her cherished Prince Consort, Albert, passed away. Amidst the global grief caused by the start of the Civil War and President Lincoln’s assassination, these individual losses were exacerbated. Victorian culture was shadowed by death, which led to the development of complex and rigorous traditions around mourning.
Half-mourning, marked by muted shades of grey, lasted for the next six months, while full mourning required an all-black outfit and jewelry for a full year. The mourning clothing market flourished, serving the requirements of the affluent, who frequently bought brand-new black clothing after a loved one passed away. Mourning became a booming business as even slaves took part, dying their clothes black and occasionally buying matching jewelry.
In addition to donning solemn clothes, mourners looked for mementos to pay tribute to their deceased loved ones. With the rise in popularity of mourning jewelry came lockets that could store pictures or hair strands, as well as memory, rings with finely engraved details, and hair that was expertly braided. These jewelry items, which were made of jet, onyx, or deeper-hued gemstones like garnets and amethysts, acted as moving mementos of the departed.
Key Influences of the Victorian Great Period on Jewelry
In the Grand Period, several pivotal events reshaped the landscape of jewelry design. The unearthing of South African diamond mines in 1867 sparked a fervor for diamonds, elevating their popularity to unprecedented heights. Concurrently, the discovery of silver in Nevada in 1860 infused silver into jewelry creations. Despite these innovations, low-karat gold retained its status as the predominant material in jewelry crafting. A notable stylistic evolution emerged with Revival jewelry, drawing inspiration from ancient Etruscan, Egyptian, and Roman aesthetics, propelled by widely publicized archaeological expeditions. Additionally, micro-mosaic jewelry gained prominence during this era, employing minuscule tesserae or glass fragments, a technique with roots tracing back to Roman antiquity.
The Aesthetic period (1885-1901)
During the Aesthetic period of Victorian jewelry, also known as the late Victorian period, a significant cultural shift emerged, redefining the role of jewelry in women’s lives. This epoch witnessed a burgeoning sense of women’s agency within society, evident in their active participation in political spheres and their growing independence. Consequently, there arose a departure from traditional notions of femininity, fostering an atmosphere of liberated thought.
The acceptance of jewelry saw a significant change during this revolutionary time. Women began to save their jewelry for special events rather than wearing it every day, which reflected the era’s preference for individualism and independence above tradition.
Several characteristics set Victorian engagement rings apart throughout this period:
- Themes welcomed a return to romanticism, with symbols representing delicate butterflies, blossoming flowers, and gentle, natural tones.
- Opals, emeralds, and amethysts were popular materials, deviating from more traditional selections.
- There was a shift in jewelry tastes toward more modest pieces. Small, subtle brooches and earrings were more fashionable, while bracelets became less common.
Queen Victoria’s lasting impact was still very much felt throughout this time, as seen by the continued appeal of mourning jewelry.
Key Influences of the Victorian Aesthetic Period on Jewelry
Throughout the Victorian era, women mostly influenced jewelry design. Jewelry needed to become adaptable and comfy as people embraced increasingly active lifestyles, joined the workforce and battled for their freedom. Young women in the US looked up to the Gibson Girls’ lifestyle, and actresses created fashion trends. International expositions also contributed to the illusion of a smaller globe, as jewelry from North Africa and India drew in viewers and appealed to those who were already fans of Etruscan and Roman-style Revival jewelry.
