Let us explore the fascinating world of Etruscan jewelry, a fundamental aspect of ancient workmanship that has had a great impact on the decorative arts. The Etruscans outperformed their forefathers by perfecting methods such as granulation, embossing, and filigree, resulting in an unprecedented level of sophistication in jewelry manufacturing. The superb pieces that have remained, displaying extensive usage of jewels such as sapphires, emeralds, and garnets, owe their survival to the Etruscans’ great belief in the afterlife. The story of Etruscan jewelry is more than just a chapter in the history of ancient Etruscan jewelry; it demonstrates the enduring appeal and technical expertise that continues to captivate and inspire awe to this day.
Who were The Etruscans?
Around the eighth century BC, the Etruscan society started to stand out. It developed into a powerful political force made up of a network of allied but mostly independent city-states that stretched from the Po valley in the north to Campania in the south and from Corsica in the west to Umbria in the east. These towns showed parallels in their artistic and architectural styles, as well as a common language. Renowned for their extraordinary civil engineering, the Etruscans are given credit for numerous building developments that the Romans are usually given credit for.
There is constant discussion on the Etruscans’ origins. The Etruscan language is unlike any language spoken in Turkey, which challenges the notion that they were migrants from Anatolia (modern-day Turkey), which is backed by genetic studies but contradicted by linguistic data. On the other hand, other accounts contend that the Etruscans came from the very regions they called home. Though there are still unanswered questions regarding their ancestry, it is generally accepted that the Etruscans acquired a variety of skills and materials, including gold and gemstones, from their interactions with Eastern traders, most notably the Phoenicians.
What do we know about Etruscan jewelry?
Early and Late Etruscan jewelry can be loosely categorized into two periods. The height of civilization occurred between the seventh and the fifth centuries BC. These are the periods when jewelry is at its best. The variety, quantity, and exceptional craftsmanship of early Etruscan jewelry are its defining features. Because the Etruscans were such color enthusiasts, their artwork frequently featured colored gemstones, glass beads, and faience. There is some Greek influence that must be acknowledged, as seen in the greater use of enameling and filigree after the 7th century BC.
The Etruscans valued gold highly, as evidenced by the exquisite craftsmanship and remarkable dexterity of the pieces. A large portion of the gold sheet utilized is thinner than 0.1 mm. Sheet gold would be rolled up to create hollow tubes when thicker rods were required. The most common type of gold wire used in filigree was spiral beaded wire, which was created by rolling a knife edge over a smooth wire to create a decorative wire that resembled a screw thread. The exquisite granulation that the Etruscans applied without the need for solder is their most well-known method.
Around 400 BC, the Etruscan world faced invasions from the north by Celts and from the south by Italics, weakening their power. This decline showed in their jewelry, transitioning from intricate masterpieces to simpler, thinner gold designs with basic embossing. Rarely using granulation and filigree, their craftsmanship reflected the changing times. Eventually, the Etruscans were absorbed by the rising Roman civilization, marking the end of their unique era. This shift from complex to simple in Etruscan jewelry tells a story of a civilization adapting to a changing world, ultimately merging with the Romans.
This is an Etruscan jewelry sample!
Let’s introduce you to one of the most exquisite and unique collections of Etruscan jewelry ever found. It comes with a gorgeous gold and glass pendant necklace, sophisticated rock crystal disk earrings, a sphinx-adorned dress fastening, simple gold fibulae, a gold dress pin, and five superb fingerrings. Notably, two of the rings have swivel bezels with etched scarabs on them; one has embossed satyr heads, while the other rings have exquisitely carved gold bezels.
